The Saline Reporter
A Heritage Newspaper
Weekly Publication
Sushi in Saline
Byong Kwon opens Biwako in the Sauk Trail Shopping Center
By Sue G. Collins, Special Writer
PUBLISHED: January 25, 2007
Byong Kwon comes from a family of restaurateurs and is now sharing his culinary talents in the Saline community with his restaurant, Biwako.
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Kwon's parents owned a restaurant in Korea before moving to the United States in 1997, and his uncle is a chef in Ann Arbor.
"They gave me some very good advice, like the importance of keeping quality high and prices low," said Kwon, who says he feels it's crucial for him to be actively involved in the business, from rolling sushi to dealing with suppliers, so he can keep overhead expenses low.
The restaurant, which opened in November in the Sauk Trail Shopping Center on East Michigan Avenue, dishes up 200 servings of rice every day that are steamed and then rolled into 21 varieties to complement cooked or raw fish and fresh vegetables, then topped with tasty sauces and dressings.
"We are very happy to be here in Saline and already have a lot of repeat customers," Kwon said. "This is a very friendly community with lots of opportunity for growth."
The menu includes sushi, salad, soup and daily specials. Fresh fish is delivered three times a week from Boston and Chicago.
Kwon describes his style as a fusion between Japanese and Korean.
"Japanese sushi is more traditional and plain, whereas Korean rolls and sushi are more creative," he said.
The menu at Biwako features some 70 different items, but Kwon reassures first-time sushi diners by offering familiar items like the California roll and notes that 40 percent of the menu includes cooked fish rolls.
"We want people to feel free to ask the staff and chef for ideas," Kwon said.
Items containing raw seafood are also clearly marked. More experienced sushi diners like Bonita Neighbors of Saline said she has been to Biwako several times and recently brought her son, Rashid, who was home for the holidays from San Diego.
"I've had sushi all over the country and this is right up there with the best," he said.
That's the sort of response Kwon is working for. He said he has welcomed at least 10 new customers every day, drawing from Saline, Clinton and even as far away as Toledo.
Jimmy Joo is the master behind the sushi bar. If you're lucky to grab one of the four chairs in front of him, you will watch his knives flash –– sharpened twice each day –– and the tight choreography as he makes a Saline roll, which includes spicy tuna, shrimp tempura, cucumber and topped with crab salad or the New Michigan roll, which is deep-fried and includes salmon, tuna, red snapper and asparagus.
The traditional Korean home-style dish bibimbap is served as a lunch special and includes rice topped with vegetables and a choice of beef, chicken or tofu.
I enjoyed the kind hospitality of Biwako owner Byong Kwon and master sushi chef Jimmy Joo during a recent visit.
I peeked around the corner and watched Kwon scoop out some bright white, perfectly sticky rice from a huge steamer. In one fluid movement, he grabbed a bamboo mat lined with plastic wrap, patted down the rice and began topping it with a flurry of fresh spicy crab, shrimp, crunchy tempura batter and spicy mayonaise.
He rolled it tightly and sliced it into eight pieces, fanning them onto a porcelain platter garnished with pink ginger and a dollop of wasabi.
It was wonderful. The texture of the crunchy tempura was a welcome surprise, the fish was smooth and fresh and the mayo and spicy topping was delicious.
Having lived in Hong Kong, I have enjoyed some fancy sushi while daintily seated in revolving restaurants overlooking the very busy Victoria Harbour. But, I must admit, it was an even tastier pleasure to enjoy the "Crunch & Munch" special roll right here in my hometown.
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